The History of Korean Beauty Part 2: Goryeo Dynasty

 Asia Society Korea's latest blog post focused on the Silla people's great interest in beauty and appearances. Today, Asia Society Korea will examine the changing aesthetics and social status of women during the Goryeo dynasty (918-1392) as part of the Leo Gala series to promote Korean culture and celebrate its beauty beyond the facade.

During the Three-Royalth Period (57 BC - 668 BC), a woman's beauty was usually defined by her voluptuousness because it was believed to indicate fertility similar to that of Mother Earth. However, in the Goryeo dynasty, standards of beauty were increasingly built around elegance.

As the principles of beauty changed, naturally, so did the composition and methods of beautification. Back then, lower-class women who worked in places like taverns wore heavy, colorful makeup. It triggered a rather discriminatory stereotype that reinforced the use of lighter makeup by women of the ruling class. These women differentiate themselves by applying only thin layers of makeup, which leads the people of Goryeo to take exceptional time to take care of their skin in admiration for a clear complexion. It is said that upper-class women used a slightly toned peach-colored blush and applied only yonji (;; it), a red make-up made of safflower, to their lips. However, on special occasions such as weddings, brides also wore yonji on their cheeks and foreheads, and the latter was called gonji (지지).

Based on official portraits, including Lady Hagueon's, we get more information on the beauty trends of the Goryeo dynasty. We expected a woman's eyebrows to be thick and arch-shaped. They were also drawn to match the diameter of the eyes. The same color as Yeonji on the cheeks, chin and forehead was used for the lips to create a consistent look. This type of makeup was also observed in the portraits of the deceased, in which people were usually drawn when they were well dressed.

Women of the Goryeo dynasty are relatively more independent than those of the Joseon dynasty (1392-1897). Women retain their family names, are economically independent, have the right to own property and all siblings receive equal amounts of inheritance. Besides, women are allowed to remarry when their husbands die. Women are trusted to take care of their old parents. As such, men often settle in with their spouses, a sign of matrilocal society. Children also shared the same responsibilities in rituals after parents died. Although women are excluded from business affairs or government roles, within the family, Goryeo women are active and independent members of the family who make their voices heard.

Over time, the standards of beauty that people apply and the status of women have gradually changed. A common belief that passed through the Silla dynasty claimed that inside a beautiful body rested a beautiful soul.

In the Goryeo dynasty, elegance was highlighted as a key element of beauty. A lighter makeup was used and, in line with the trend, more time was spent on skin care to get a clearer complexion. As far as women's rights are concerned, it seems that the Goryeo dynasty was more open-minded than the Joseon dynasty, which was founded on Confucianism. In the household, women and girls had to a large extent the same status as their male counterparts. Much of this progress for women and girls was lost later in the Joseon dynasty, as the nation encouraged the cancellation of Goryeo's liberal policies aimed at restoring Confucian order. For a more nuanced analysis of the aesthetics and social status of women in the Joseon dynasty, look no further than our next episode of the Korean Beauty series.휴게텔

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SOURCE: https://www.ophunter.net